Nov 3, 2011

From Yerevan to Tbilisi, 31 October 2011

On our way back with Grant and his Mercedes we visited to more monasteries, one at Lake Sevan and the last one: Haghartsin. All together a very intensive programme and I was rather exhausted when we were back in Tbilisi.

Stop at Lake Sevan.

Sevanavank is a monastic complex located on a peninsula at the northwestern shore of Lake Sevan.

Lake Sevan - we had beautiful weather on our way back

Haghartsin Monastery (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haghartsin_Monastery) is nicely situated well hidden in the mountains

Grant, our driver, at Haghartsin Monastery

A castle ruin and 4 more monasteries, 30 October 2011

Sunday we visited a castle ruin at 2300 meters height and 4 more monasteries


Oshakan (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oshakan)
The Church of Saint Mesrop Mashtots is the burial place of Saint Mesrop Mashtots, the creator of the Armenian alphabet.
Saint Mesrop Mashtots (361 or 362 – February 17, 440) was an Armenian monk, theologian and linguist. He is best known for having invented the Armenian alphabet, which was a fundamental step in strengthening the Armenian Church, the government of the Armenian Kingdom, and ultimately the bond between the Armenian Kingdom and Armenians living in the Byzantine Empire and the Persian Empire.

Gravestones can also be used for storing hay

The monastery of Saint George is located just off of the main road that runs through the town of Mughni in the Aragatsotn province.



Saint Gevorg Monastery: Incense seems to be a part of the service in Armenia


It was snowing when we drove up the Aragat to visit the Amberd fortress (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amberd)
The fortress is located 2,300 meters above sea level, on the slopes of Mount Aragats at the confluence of the Arkashen and Amberd rivers in the province of Aragatsotn. The name translates to "fortress in the clouds" in Armenian.

The site where the fortress sits presently started as a Stone Age settlement. During the Bronze Age and Urartian periods, a fortress had been built that is now obsolete. Some sources say that Amberd used to be a summer residence for kings. The castle of Amberd and some sections of walls were constructed in the 7th century AD as a possession of the noble House of Kamsarakan.

Four centuries later the fortress and surrounding lands were purchased by the House of Pahlavuni and rebuilt by Prince Vahram Vachutian Pahlavuni, as is recorded in the manuscripts of Grigor Magistros Pahlavuni. Vahram built the Church of Surb Astvatsatsin in 1026, fortified the complex with thicker stone walls, and added three bastions along the ridge of the Arkhashen canyon. Despite being unusual for a military installation, a bath house was built in the same period and has remained moderately intact along with the water supply system.

Amberd was invaded in the 1070s by the Seljuq Turks who turned it into a military base. In 1197, a joint-army of Georgians and Armenians led by General Zakareh Zakarian liberated the fortress. Under Zakarian control during the 12th–13th centuries, the walls were structurally reinforced and the castle and outer buildings were renovated.
The noble Vacheh Vachutian purchased Amberd in 1215, making it a key defensive site in the region. Within a short period of time, the Mongols captured and destroyed the fortress in the year 1236. The site remained abandoned and untouched until the 20th century, when reconstruction and archaeological excavations began.

The Vahramashen Church is a 11th century Armenian church near the castle.

The landscape around the Amberd fortress

Saghmosavank Monastery (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saghmosavank_Monastery)
The Saghmosavank Monastery is a 13th century Armenian monastic complex located in the village of Saghmosavan in the Aragatsotn Province of Armenia. Like the Hovhannavank Monastery which is five kilometers north, Saghmosavank is situated atop the precipitous gorge carved by the Kasagh river.

The gorge carved by the Kasagh river.

Hovhannavank Monastery (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hovhannavank_Monastery)
Hovhannavank is an located in the village of Ohanavan. The monastery's title originates from the combination of the name Hovhan (Armenian for Jonah) and the word “vank,” which in Armenian means “monastery.”

Hovhannavank Monastery is also situated atop the gorge carved by the Kasagh river a few kilometers from Saghmosavank Monastery.

Nov 2, 2011

Khor Virap and Noravank, 29 October 2011

When we came to Yerevan we visited the local tour operator “Sati tour” (http://www.satiglobal.com/index.php?page=about_company) and they arranged trips for us on Saturday and Sunday.
Saturday we went south east of Yerevan to visit the monasteries Khor Virap and Noravank.

Khor Virap monastery in the Araks River Valley (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khor_Virap). The Khor Virap (meaning deep pit or "deep well") is an Armenian Apostolic Church monastery located in the Ararat plain in Armenia, near the border with Turkey. Khor Virap's notability as a monastery and pilgrimage site is attributed to the fact that Grigor Lusavorich, who later became Saint Gregory the Illuminator, was initially imprisoned here for 13 years by King Tiridates III of Armenia. Saint Gregory subsequently became the king's religious mentor, and they led the proselytizing activity in the country.

We drove up in the mountains in the southern part of Armenia



There were snow higher up in the mountains

Noravank (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noravank), maybe the most beautiful monastery in Armenia, is fantastically situated in a narrow Gorge

The priest at Noravank

Noravank ("New Monastery") is a 13th century Armenian Apostolic Church monastery, located 122 km from Yerevan in a narrow gorge made by the Amaghu river, nearby the city of Yeghegnadzor, Armenia. The gorge is known for its tall, sheer, brick-red cliffs, directly across from the monastery. The monastery is best known for its two-storey S. Astvatsatsin church, which grants access to the second floor by way of narrow stones jutting out from the face of building.



Noravank was founded in 1205 by Bishop Hovhannes, the former Abbot of Vahanavank. The monastic complex includes the church of S. Karapet, S. Grigor chapel with a vaulted hall, and the church of S. Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God). Ruins of various civil buildings and khachkars are found both inside and outside of the compound walls.

An old soviet militsiya motorcycle parked at the roadside

And the old militsiya man owning it
When the Bolsheviks adopted the name ‘militia’ for their police force, they were seeking to make a symbolic break from the old, tsarist police order. The force which emerged was a ramshackle collection of revolutionary activists, opportunists, bandits-turned-nominal-lawmen and former tsarist police. Idealistic notions that they would be a radically different force from their predecessors came to naught, though, given that the Bolshevik state largely face similar challenges: an inability to deploy enough police effectively to control the countryside, a commitment to political policing over the rule of law, and as a result an implicit or reluctant acceptance of local vigilantism and mechanisms of social control. (http://inmoscowsshadows.wordpress.com/2010/08/09/whats-in-a-name-russian-militia-to-be-called-police-again/)


Our driver wanted to show us a bred “factory” making the Armenian flat bread called “Lavash”



Near Noravank is the main wine district of Armenia, with a lot of roadside shops selling the home produced wine.

Our travel agency “Sati tour” had arranged a nice big Chrysler for us

Armenia, 28 – 31 October 2011

After the last steering committee meeting in the Kura project; Birthe and I decided to go to Armenia, to visit some authorities and do some sightseeing. Grant, the one-legged driver who usually drives us, also drove to Yerevan this time together with some members of our Armenian team, who had participated in the meeting.
When we came to Yerevan we visited the local tour operator “Sati tour” (http://www.satiglobal.com/index.php?page=about_company) and they arranged trips for us on Saturday and Sunday.
Saturday we went south east of Yerevan to visit the monasteries Khor Virap and Noravank.
Sunday we visited a castle ruin at 2300 meters height and 4 more monasteries
On our way back with Grant and his Mercedes we visited to more monasteries, one at Lake Sevan and the last one: Haghartsin. All together a very intensive programme and I was rather exhausted when we were back in Tbilisi.


The landscape on the Georgian side of the border

At the tax free shop on the Georgian side of the border

Debed River just on the Armenian side of the border

View from my hotel room on Hrazdan Gorge and the Yerevan skyline

View from my hotel room zooming in on the mountains