Denmark: Rudkøbing (Langeland) to Marstal (Ærø) with the new ferry, the ÆrøXpress, 1 March 2020

Marstal with its 2300 inhabitants is the biggest city on the island of Ærø. The island of Ærø just vest of Langeland , and you can nearly walk over there. Marstal is probably the only Danish city based solely on shipping. Marstal owes its existence the its natural harbor. From ancient times, Ærø has a town, Ærøskøbing, with exclusive rights to trade. But Marstal was able to challenge this right because the small island was divided between 4 dukes, and the one owning Mastal had an interest in promoting its trade. In 1634, during the area when Ærø was divided between the 4 dukes, Marstal came outside the influence of Ærøskøbing, and the duke who took ownership of the part of the island, where Marstal was located promoted the business of maritime traffic in Marstal. The maritime traffic got a boost in 1729 when Marstal came under the Danish king. Before that Marstal was a part of the German part of Denmark, and trade was more difficult . When Marstal came under the Danish king it resulted in the disappearance of a number of customs, which had previously restricted trade. The Marstallers were known for their focus on their sailing, their great diligence, accuracy, foresight and their ability to cooperate for their cause. Marstal's history, with focus on the maritime and marine engineering part, is brilliantly told at the Marstal Maritime Museum. Here you can easily get a few days going with all the artefacts and stories from Marstal shipping through the ages. https://www.marmus.dk/ https://da.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marstal

On the way to Marstal with the ÆrøXpressen. In Marstal's major power days as a maritime city, what is now a marina, was filled with magnificant sailing ships in the winter.

Marstal seen from the ÆrøXpressen. he harbor of Marstal in 1912 with some of the many sailing vessels that were inactive during the winter months where the weather was too bad, it was too cold and there was less cargo to sail with. In its hey days, almost ¼ of Denmark's total fleet of ships belonged to Marstal, and the town had the second biggest trade fleet in Denmark after Copenhagen. Although not much shipping remains today, the Marstallers still hold on to their identity as a maritime city. When, in the name of the “Holy Centralization”, in January 2000, central authorities had decided that the Marstal Navigation School should close, a large portion of the island's population went to the Danish Parliament on Friday, January 14 - to protest. And Marstal Navigation School survived.

Marstal town seen from the ÆrøXpressen.

On Frederiksøen is the beautiful old lime kiln. The harbor pier is an extension of Frederiksøen and Erik Hale. The harbor pier is a huge building made by dedicated shipowners and sailors in the winter while the ships lay still, to protect against storms to the east. It was built for the purpose of the city's sailors from 1821 to 1841 and expanded a few times later.

Before getting a common water supply, the many private wells played the crucial role in the water supply.

Marstalsgade. The last building in the picture is the former cinema, now the Marstal Marine Association's house. Marstal Seamen has restored the cinema and uses as a clubhouse. https://www.marstalmarineforening.dk/form%C3%A5l Carsten Jensen's bestseller "We, the drowned" is about the sailors from Marstal. Carsten Jensen writes in his novel "All the streets and alleys in Marstal were main streets. They all led down to the World Sea." https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/reviews/we-the-drowned-by-carsten-jensen-trans-charlotte-barslund-and-emma-ryder-1945736.html

In the now abandoned cemetery there are some old tombstones left from the upper class Marstallers.

Marstal church was built in 1738. 7 votive ships testify to the town's connection to the sea and the development of maritime transport from the 18th century Yacht to the present coaster. On the tombstone is written a small limerick: Here rests Christen Hansen at anchor with his wife. He does not embark until he comes before the throne of God.

In the church there are many votive ships (you are in a city dedicated to sailing!). One of them were a nice model of a Yacht, the most common ship type from the 1700s until long into the 1900s. When the Marstallers started sailing on the large seas, the Yacht was too small and not seaworthy enough.

We were 50 persons on an excursion with the Langeland Museum Association. We had lunch, which was Labskaus, a culinary specialty from Northern Germany popular among sailors, in the Marstal Marine Association's premises. In 1988, the Marstal Marine Association acquired its own house, namely the building that since 1921 had housed the Marstal Cinema Theater. The old cinema is beautifully restored and filled with memories of the members of the Marstal Marine Association's long life at sea.

English cannonball collected after an unsuccessful (from an English point of view) siege and shooting at Marstal in 1808. Image from the Marstal Marine Association's premises. The many wars at that time, in which Denmark went from a medium-sized naval power to a small agricultural and trade nation, caused many setbacks for Marstal's shipping fleet. Marshall's prosperity ended with the war with England in 1807 to 1814. Trade stopped, several ships were taken by the English and others lost. It took several decades for Marstal's shipping to recover. After the war in 1864, Marstal's shipping from the Danish waters and the Baltic turned to the world seas with larger ships, especially schooners with two or three masts. Also during both World War I and World War II, Marstal suffered heavy losses at sea by both sailors and ships.

On this map from Google Earth you can see: - The harbor protected by Frederiksøen and Eriks Hale. to the north and east. - There is a natural navigation channel leading to the harbor from the south. - The sandbar in extension of Ristinge Klint on Langeland makes access from the north more difficult.