Another beautiful day in Gudauri, Sunday, 28 February 2010

Skiing in Gudauri 20 February 2010

After having planning to go for skiing in the ski resort Gudauri in the Caucasus, 2 hours drive from Tbilisi, we eventually succeeded. The two previous weekends the weather had been so bad that the road was closed.

We were very lucky, not a single cloud, very clear, no wind, perfect for skiing and enjoying the fantastic views over the Caucasus. We very informed that it was the first day this season with good weather for skiing.

We managed to ski without any breaks for 7 hours, no time breaks or lunch. A very nice day, and good sleeping the following night.

The first picture is of the famous Kazbeg mountain 5047 meter, the third highest in Caucasus.

Armenia, 9 - 12 February 2010

9 - 12 February the team leader of our project and I vent to Armenia, to discuss project progress with our Armenian team. We had some very good and constructive meetings and I think the progress have been good until now.

We went by car as the flights between Tbilisi and Yerevan had been suspended.

The road Yerevan to Tbilisi goes through the beautiful Debed canyon. It the main road to Armenia so there is a rather heavy lorry-traffic, mainly lorries from Turkey, who has to drive the long way through Georgia as the border between Turkey and Armenia is closed.

On the way I proposed to visit one of the many monasteries in Armenia. Kobayr Monastery is not among the most famous monasteries in Armenia, but is said to be one of the most beautiful places in Armenia. Perched on a shelf of the Debed gorge, in an ancient and sacred place where springs seep out of the rock, trees and vines twine among the intricately carved blocks of the monastery. The monastery lies well hidden among trees, so we had some problems in finding it.

The complex history of the region can be illustrated by most of the beautifully carved inscriptions are in Georgian, as is the manner of the splendid (albeit restored) fresco decoration in the churches. This is a result of the monasty being property of the Georgian Orthodox Zakarian family in a part of its history.

Shortly before the Kobayr Monastery we passed the industrial town Alaverdi, one on the several towns with heavy soviet industry complexes, which all collapsed after the fall of the soviet empire. The town is famous for its copper mine and copper smelter. At one point, Alaverdi was allegedly the source of one quarter of the Russian Empire's output of refined copper.

On the way back it was our intention to visit one of the most famous monasteries in Armenia, the Haghpat monastery, also situated in the Debed canyon. But it was unfortunately snowing on our way back, and the driver recommended not taking the byroad which leads to the monastery, as the road was very slippery.

Lilo Market Tbilisi, 6 december 2009

Sunday our trip went to the Lilo market, just outside Tbilisi on the main road east to the wine district.

Vlado had found out that bus No 67 from the main railway station drove to the market so we went to the station to catch the bus. We found the bus without any problems, but it was already full, but we managed to press us in. Later at a bus stop a bunch of people managed to press them into the bus, so we were really socialising, at least we were close.

The enormous market was equally full with people. It was mainly selling clothes. Ordinary Tbilisi inhabitants seem to buy their clothes at this market, and not in the fancy shops at Chavchavadze Avenue where I live (last picture).

Georgian Dancing, Saturday 28 November 2009

Vlado invited us for with a performance traditional Georgian dances in a modern arrangement at the main newly refurbished theatre.

It was a very impressive performance, and very popular event, every seat in the theatre were occupied.

Davit Gareja, Sunday 22 November 2009

On the border with Azerbaijan, Davit Gareja comprises about 15 old monasteries spread over a large, remote area, its uniqueness is heightened by a lunar, semidesert landscape. We visited two of the key monasteries, Lavra (the only inhabited one today), and, on the hill above it, Udabno, which has beautiful frescoes.

Lavra, the first monastery here, was founded by Davit Gareja, one of the 13 ascetic ‘Syrian fathers’ who returned from the Middle East to spread Christianity in Georgia in the 6th century. The religious complex grew until there were monasteries spread over a wide area. Here manuscripts were translated and copied, and a celebrated Georgian school of fresco painting developed. The monasteries were destroyed by the Mongols in 1265, revived in the early 14th century by Giorgi V the Brilliant, sacked by Timur and then suffered their worst moment of all on Easter night 1615 when Persian Shah Abbas’ soldiers killed 6000 monks and destroyed most of their artistic treasures. In 1675 King Archil initiated some restoration and gave stipends to the monks. The monasteries never regained their former importance but remained working until the end of the 19th century.

During the Soviet era the area was used for military exercises, and some of the first demonstrations of the perestroika period in Tbilisi were protests against this vandalism. Ironically, the Georgian army then used the area for training in the mid-1990s. These manoeuvres were stopped when protesters camped in the firing range.

To get to Udabno, we had to climb to the mountain ridge. The plains and low hills on the other side of the mountain ridge were in Azerbaijan, and the caves alongside and above the path along the ridge were the Udabno monastery. Some of the caves were churches or chapels or rooms, and their inner walls still bear frescoes painted by the renowned fresco school that flourished here between the 10th and 13th centuries.

From Sighnaghi to Tbilisi, Saturday 21 November 2009

On our way back we spotted a brown bear in a very small cage just beside the road. It has probably been installed there as an attraction for visitors to nearby shop and a restaurant. It seemed that the main attraction was to feed it with some fluid (fruit juice?), which it could drink from the plastic bottle in a very human way. The fact that the brown bear is an endangered species strictly protected in Georgia did not seem to having gained understanding all over Georgia.

Being in the wine distinct we decided to buy som locally produced wine. We drove to a small village where we spotted an old man transporting some firewood home on his donkey. We asked him where to buy some local wine and he offered his. We went to his house nearby, and were invited to taste the wine together with cheese and bread. The old man (86) lived in very well maintained house together with his wife (78), so their wine must be very healthy. I have now 10 litres in my flat which will keep me healthy for a long time. When we had socialised for some time the donkey felt that it also should join the party and hammered on the door to the yard where we were enjoying our cheese, wine and bread. It was let into the yard and relaxed. The old couple told that they were very happy for the money, as they were going to a wedding next day and it was custom to give some money. It seemed that it was not every day they had money in their hands.